file Cubo Kick 15

4 years 6 months ago #22717 by anjmoor
Replied by anjmoor on topic Cubo Kick 15
Some dry build pics of a Cubo Kick 12, due to not being able to obtain 15mm ply here 18mm has been used. This will mean that if you use 18mm Ply you will have to alter some of your measurements so check and double check everything before you make your cuts. By using 18mm you will alter internal measurements of the 12 but it does result in one hell of a rugged cabinet.


















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4 years 6 months ago #22735 by Cubo15
Replied by Cubo15 on topic Cubo Kick 15
Nice build! Did you run into any trouble or did the supplied plans contain all the information you needed for the build?

Best regards

Cubo

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4 years 6 months ago #22737 by anjmoor
Replied by anjmoor on topic Cubo Kick 15
The plans were ok but I think there may be a couple of areas and details that could be approached, t-nut placement needs discussing as the baffle is overlapped, maybe something that could be explained here to assist others. At work right now so will broach this subject here tonight. Enjoyed building them a lot and not too complex for novice builders .

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4 years 6 months ago #22745 by lp8124
Replied by lp8124 on topic Cubo Kick 15
i almost finished 2 cubo KICK15´s.... waiting for the reply of johan to finish them! cant wait to hear them banging! :D
Attachments:

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4 years 6 months ago #22746 by pirata
Replied by pirata on topic Cubo Kick 15
Nice work guys, both looking good :) :)

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4 years 6 months ago - 4 years 6 months ago #22749 by Cubo15
Replied by Cubo15 on topic Cubo Kick 15
Well first off, if you're using a grill it doesn't matter what technique you use ;) But if you like the visual appearance of Cubo Kick, it's best to put only a few t-nuts in sight.

Personally I like to place all the t-nuts directly on the baffle, using a spade drill bit to countersink the t-nuts 1 - 2 mm deep into the baffle (so that they're flush mounted). I use a polyurethane (30 minute curing) glue to paste the t-nuts in place.
After that I would put the 11.6 x 58.4 cm and 33.5 x 58.4 cm panels in place.

As I like to use bolts that are 0.5 - 1 cm longer than strictly necessary, that would mean drilling holes in the panels glued to the baffle as well (to allow for the extra length of the bolts).
The idea behind using bolts that are longer is that the contact surface area is already at a maximum before any real strain is put on the bolts and t-nuts.

You can use a precise drill bit all the way through or a spade drill bit half way through to designate the rough area where the bolts will be.

I would be interested to know what solutions others have come up with for the t-nuts placement.

Best regards

Cubo

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4 years 6 months ago #22750 by Tetris
Replied by Tetris on topic Cubo Kick 15
I pretty much did exactly what Cubo has suggested. The only issue I can see is if a t-nut rounds off... That would be a sad day!!
Second one nearly completed...

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4 years 6 months ago #22753 by anjmoor
Replied by anjmoor on topic Cubo Kick 15
Remember these are Cubo Kick 12's, I am testing some P-audio E-series 200 watt LF's in these to see how they perform, as you know I like to know how budget you can go with some drivers as this may help others get a bottom line. should have everything set up mid week. The P-audio Drivers are being moved up to my Fane 12" mid top enclosures that I am also building alongside the Cubo Kick 12's and will be replaced with probably some 300 watt lf drivers. As I have always said my system to me is about balance and not sheer power.

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4 years 5 months ago #22762 by t.geessounds
Replied by t.geessounds on topic Cubo Kick 15
how would the B&C 15CL76 preform in these kick?
www.bcspeakers.com/products/lf-driver/15-0/15cl76

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4 years 5 months ago #22768 by SuperDon
Replied by SuperDon on topic Cubo Kick 15
I'm curious to hear how a pd1550 would sound in these.
Is it on the more on the low end emphasis?

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