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Cubo 18
- nickyburnell
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13 years 1 month ago - 13 years 1 month ago #15272
by nickyburnell
Replied by nickyburnell on topic Cubo 18
I used the Flightcase type, even recessed no volume lost
www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=flight ... 80&bih=853
But black
www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=flight ... 80&bih=853
But black
Last edit: 13 years 1 month ago by nickyburnell.
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- COZY PILLOW
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13 years 1 month ago #15273
by COZY PILLOW
Replied by COZY PILLOW on topic Cubo 18
Hi Peter, Ben is correct putting handles on the sides will affect the chamber volume ans as he said it won't affect the sound.
I have used metal Bar handles and Plastic handles with back covers but i think the best way is to router out the side panel and cover the hole with a back box. Then you can lift the cab from front, back or top. This way feels more natural. If you don't have a router a Jigsaw would do the job also.
If you measure the width of your hand and add 10-15mm either side this will give you an idea of how wide the hole should be and keep it simple use a square or rectangular hole. If you are good with a router you can a rounded X shape where the base of you fingers/palm of your hand fits the around the cutaway.
I found one of my old pics which might explain it better.
I have used metal Bar handles and Plastic handles with back covers but i think the best way is to router out the side panel and cover the hole with a back box. Then you can lift the cab from front, back or top. This way feels more natural. If you don't have a router a Jigsaw would do the job also.
If you measure the width of your hand and add 10-15mm either side this will give you an idea of how wide the hole should be and keep it simple use a square or rectangular hole. If you are good with a router you can a rounded X shape where the base of you fingers/palm of your hand fits the around the cutaway.
I found one of my old pics which might explain it better.
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13 years 1 month ago #15274
by COZY PILLOW
Replied by COZY PILLOW on topic Cubo 18
the back box
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13 years 1 month ago #15275
by COZY PILLOW
Replied by COZY PILLOW on topic Cubo 18
the Painted back box
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13 years 1 month ago #15276
by COZY PILLOW
Replied by COZY PILLOW on topic Cubo 18
Here is the Tee Nuts pic for mounting your driver.
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- Cubo15
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13 years 1 month ago #15280
by Cubo15
Replied by Cubo15 on topic Cubo 18
Hi,
It seems most questions are answered already If you have problems pre-drilling the t-nuts in the current situation (as some power drills are to long/deep to fit in the horn) you could use a 3.6 V (ussually Li-ion) power drill. Drill diameter 6.5 mm up to 7.5 mm will do. I've also had succes using a flex-bit and a drill with a bit at the other end rather then a standard round shaft (mine was welded on but those 3.6 V drills use them too).
Best regards
Cubo
It seems most questions are answered already If you have problems pre-drilling the t-nuts in the current situation (as some power drills are to long/deep to fit in the horn) you could use a 3.6 V (ussually Li-ion) power drill. Drill diameter 6.5 mm up to 7.5 mm will do. I've also had succes using a flex-bit and a drill with a bit at the other end rather then a standard round shaft (mine was welded on but those 3.6 V drills use them too).
Best regards
Cubo
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13 years 1 month ago #15283
by COZY PILLOW
Replied by COZY PILLOW on topic Cubo 18
Any angle drill cordless or mains powered would also be able to to the job.
You just have to remember to put the tee nuts in the correct way. E.G. The base of the tee nut (teeth) with the small threaded end inserted into the wood, so the Bolt or Machine Screw can be inserted through the driver chassis to allow it to be pulled towards and through the tee nut base. 30 - 35mm bolts/screws are good for 18mm thick timber. The Tee nuts bite into the timber which offer an excellent fix for the driver and the bolts can be easily removed for future repair or driver inspection etc.
happy building!!!
You just have to remember to put the tee nuts in the correct way. E.G. The base of the tee nut (teeth) with the small threaded end inserted into the wood, so the Bolt or Machine Screw can be inserted through the driver chassis to allow it to be pulled towards and through the tee nut base. 30 - 35mm bolts/screws are good for 18mm thick timber. The Tee nuts bite into the timber which offer an excellent fix for the driver and the bolts can be easily removed for future repair or driver inspection etc.
happy building!!!
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13 years 1 month ago #15288
by Jimmer
Replied by Jimmer on topic Cubo 18
Hello Mr Cubo, looks like a cracking little design. I have a pair of RCF L18S801's lying about at the mo and wondered how they would fair in this sort of compact cab? They are quite a fast 18" driver by the looks of things..T/S parameters:Resonance frequency: 39 HzDC resistance: 4.9ΩMechanical factor: 8.3Electrical factor: 0.30Total factor: 0.29BL Factor: 24.5 T · mEffective Moving Mass: 148 gEquivalent Cas air load: 206 litersEffettive piston area: 0.113 m²Max. linear excursion (mathematical): 6.8 mmVoice - coil inductance @ 1kHz: 1.7 mHHalf-space efficiency: 3.93%Many thanksJim
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13 years 1 month ago #15289
by Jimmer
Replied by Jimmer on topic Cubo 18
I did post that up in a list form, but seems to have squashed it all up together....sorry about that
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13 years 1 month ago #15293
by Cubo15
Replied by Cubo15 on topic Cubo 18
The RCF L18S801's were pretty much made for a relative small cabinet such as these. The high Fs (mostly), medium Qts, smallish Vas makes it an extra effcient driver and best suited for Cubo 18 Extended.
Best regards
Cubo
Best regards
Cubo
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