Build tips

The best glue to use BY FAR is the new type polyurethane thixotropic stuff. It foams up slightly to fill any gaps, is incredibly strong, excess trims off with a chisel in seconds, and it does not stain the wood in any way. You can choose from 5 minute or 30 minute setting type, although I think the 5 minute is a bit slower than it says.
Two things to remember.

1). NEVER buy the bottles......... as soon as they are opened they start to go off and after about 3 weeks it's incredibly slow to use as it starts to thicken. Always buy the tubes which are for use in mastic/silicone guns.

2). DON'T get it on your hands.............. you will literally be scrubbing for days to get it off.

What brand/brands would that be Markie?
Is it like Evostik in that if you try to break apart the joint, the wood breaks on one side rather than at the glue? That's what I've always liked about evo.

Most wood glues are actually stronger than soft wood. Evostick do a PU (polyurethane adhesive), which you can get from screwfix. Screwfix have several brands but bear in mind my above advice about tubes rather than bottles. The evostick is available in a tube and theyalso have a "No Nonsense brand". Check out Screwfix product numbers 34168 and 40778. If you're ordering speaker paint from Aldcrofts they also have a couple of alternatives.

Any of the larger DIY stores will have some. Look for Polyurethane, PU, Thixotropic, or Moisture Cure properties.

You can glue damp wood with it, in fact spraying the joint with a "squirty bottle" actually helps it cure. It foams up slightly to fill any little gaps and once it's foamed and dry the excess comes of with literally one stroke of a chisel/stanley knife.

When you use PVA it leaves a stain on the joint which can be seen after painting....... you don't get that with PU.

After 30 odd years of using PVA it was a revalation and I now use PU for all woodwork. I haven't bought any PVA for about 3 years.

Just bear in mindthe 2 points in my earlier post.

I thought I might as well join in this one. This is what i've used over the years. The ultimate glue is what is known as one shot resin glue (Cascamite) It's a fine powder to which you add water and mix to a fine paste. You only have to get a small part of this glue touching the two parts and the only way to get them apart is to break the laminations in the ply. The poly glues like Gorilla glue are great but can be cumbersome and a little difficult to apply.
There are many PVA glues with different properties with the ultimate being Weldbond.
And just to cover a point Mark made about PVA glue showing through, after painting. I know he will agree that this will be down to how well you cover when painting. If you use the correct materials and the correct applying technique, when painting, nothing should ever show through.

The point about it being difficult to apply is true.......... if you buy the bottles. Once opened it starts to absorb moisture from the air and begins to thicken. It drove me to distraction becauseafter 2 weeks and being 1/2 empty itwas so hard to squeeze from the bottle.

That's why I say always use the tubes that fit into a mastic gun. It's actually easier to apply than PVA, at least as strong, faster drying, better atensuring your cab is airtight and much easier to remove excess.

I agree that the staining can be covered up but the way most people use PVA is to liberally apply to the joint, liberally smear the excess over the joint with the index finger to ensure it's airtight and then have to spend ages sanding the dried excess off. Even then if you have a less than perfect joint the PVA will oftel ooze OUT of the gap it's intended to fill.

Have used Cascamite many times but for me it's PU all the time these days.

GIVEorTAKE wrote: Glue: Evo stick Exterior for everything.

Why the exterior (blue) one ?

I thought the interior (green) one was just as strong ?

Waterproof?, or should I say weatherproof?. Handy if the tarp. got left behind for an outdoor gig!. Does help if cabs. are subject to damp or condensation.

I see!

Cheap and good PU glue here, I acutally prefer it to the evostick stuff from screwfix, haven't used the No-nonsense stuff tho:
www.tool-net.co.uk/p-324986/everbuild-lu...esive-gel-310ml.html
I only use PU glue, but if I was able to be .mm acurate in all my cuts then I'm not sure there is still need for it.

We usually use this glue for building cabs.... it's a bad choice?