Big amps on 13A Sockets/32A ring main

bee wrote: you just kill the main switchboard to the cooker, most houses are on a seperate ring. Then take off face plate, connect to wires. re turn on power to socket. job done......

Nice simple explanation...

However, faceplate surely now can't be screwed back on ?

Leaving live 32A+ connectors exposed ?

EDIT:Unless its those faceplates with spur fed in from bottom I guess, as opposed to conduit thru the wall...

lev im not recommending doing this...... but if you wanted to do it........ put your wires into the back of the faceplate with existing wires live, neg and earth..... then screw the faceplate back on not tight just so the face plate holds in position....... you wont get a shock even if you touch the face plate.... you will only get a shock if the wires arnt screwed in properly. can post pic if you want....... ive done this before when my amps kept tripping the rcd on the fuse board at a house party i was at....... Warning warning warning allways turn the fuse box off before opening........ allways use an electrical screw driver to make sure the power to cooker faceplate is turned off...... playing with electrics kills. allways be very carefull........

levyte357 wrote:

mykey- wrote: the answer is do it if it's your back/gig

don't DARE do it if it's corporate

Fact of the matter is, have heard of this going on with big sound systems from year dot.

Mykey regarding tapping into the "kitchen supply", I have heard of various techniques.

Question is, how could you tap in there, and leave faceplate on?

Sparkie also told me "something" about the plug socket on these cooker switchplates, is this true ?

on the cooker panel, the cooker will be hard wired, then there will be a 3 pin plug socket, for Irons or kettles, and a tiny little red (sometimes screwed in) draw that houses a 13 amp fuse, replace that fuse with something heavier, then use your 13 amp plug, but remember to replace the 13 amp fuse after your party smiley1

mykeys way works too. But most new cooker sockets dont have a socket on them...... you will need to take off and follow my steps......

bee wrote: lev im not recommending doing this...... but if you wanted to do it........ put your wires into the back of the faceplate with existing wires live, neg and earth..... then screw the faceplate back on not tight just so the face plate holds in position....... you wont get a shock even if you touch the face plate.... you will only get a shock if the wires arnt screwed in properly. can post pic if you want....... ive done this before when my amps kept tripping the rcd on the fuse board at a house party i was at....... Warning warning warning allways turn the fuse box off before opening........ allways use an electrical screw driver to make sure the power to cooker faceplate is turned off...... playing with electrics kills. allways be very carefull........

Understood...

Don't post pic...

If I wanted this done, I would bring sparkie anyway...

In Wickes today, had look at back of Elec cooker switch plate,

Assumptions confirmed... smiley14

smiley20

bee wrote: smiley20

@Bee, have you ever used a "Permaplug"?
Heard this can can definetly accomodate 4mm cable,





or the "MK Plug"?

yeah ive got a few of the mk ones, on my some of my powertools........ they where recommended to me by my sparky..... never used them for amps though..... but would help i guess..

levyte357 wrote:

bee wrote: smiley20

@Bee, have you ever used a "Permaplug"?
Heard this can can definetly accomodate 4mm cable,

or the "MK Plug"?

hi lev,

recently bought a load of permaplugs (at screwfix)

it *just* *just* *JUST* fits 2.5mm^2 h07 into it. you'd never get 4mm in there without the plug being deformed and not closing properly

in fact i think i accidently sent u an email that was meant for someone else, with a pic of some of them the other day?