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DIY Fibreglassing Advice?
- simonr
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16 years 3 months ago #3767
by simonr
Replied by simonr on topic DIY Fibreglassing Advice?
Hi Stu, time to get down to basics. First off, have you thought about how you want to mate your horn with the baffle, or the front of the cabinet?. The next question is important because you could save a lot of time and effort. Is this just a one-off, not to be repeated exercise, or do you wish to produce more than a couple of these if they turn out to be more than average flares?. Give mean idea, andI'll try to give you the least time consuming option for the way you wish to proceed.
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- strapping young stu
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16 years 3 months ago #3794
by strapping young stu
Power = Versatility x Intelligence
Replied by strapping young stu on topic DIY Fibreglassing Advice?
At the moment 4 in total are to be built.
I was hoping to start with the horn oversized and then cut it down to fit a frame at the front, and glue to the baffle at the rear.
Stu
I was hoping to start with the horn oversized and then cut it down to fit a frame at the front, and glue to the baffle at the rear.
Stu
Power = Versatility x Intelligence
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- Visitor
16 years 2 months ago #3817
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Replied by on topic DIY Fibreglassing Advice?
Just wondering how easy it would be to make a copy of an existing horn?
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- simonr
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16 years 2 months ago #3824
by simonr
Replied by simonr on topic DIY Fibreglassing Advice?
Here is an invaluable source of info for all beginners regarding this topic. I would recommend reading 'Project Information' and 'making moulds' in particular. Saves me a lot of time!.
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/store/-c-...egp5UCFQ6S1QodPiltjQ
I will post some more comments on the above, and prepare some drawings for moulding horns in particular, as soon as possible.
www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/store/-c-...egp5UCFQ6S1QodPiltjQ
I will post some more comments on the above, and prepare some drawings for moulding horns in particular, as soon as possible.
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- deadbeat
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16 years 2 months ago #3826
by deadbeat
Beranek\'s law
\'bits of ply round a driver\'
Replied by deadbeat on topic DIY Fibreglassing Advice?
Don't want to be hijacking this thread, but here's how 'winslow' of diyaudio makes his moulds:
When I made a mold for some car horns, I made them in
3 steps...first I made a form to cast the mold out of wood, 2 part
foam, and body filler. Any curves were done with the foam because it
sanded easy and was easy to fix. Then I smoothed and sealed the foam
with Rage Gold Extreme body filler. After that, I sanded it to 400 grit
and painted them.
To make the plug, I took the 2 half forms and waxed them 3 or 4 times
with mold release wax and finally sprayed a coat of PVA on them. I
sealed the halves with clay to prevent any leaks.
Then I poured casting resin into the form (I used Easy Flo 60 from US
Composites). And let it cure. I did fill up some of the space with
scrap wood to use less resin in the casting. Once cured, I pulled apart
the halves and have a pretty nice plug mold. The Easy Flo 60 can be
easily sanded really easily. Any imperfections in the plug were either
sanded out or smoothed with clay or body filler.
Then to make the part, I polished the plug, waxed it 6 times with mold
wax and sprayed it with PVA. Then I brushed on a couple heavy coats of
gel coat, let it tack, and laid my glass and core mat on top of that.
After curing, I let it set in the mold for a day before I popped it out.
The filler he refers to is slick sand/feather seal, which apparently primes, seals, and fills all at once. He also mentions that if he did it again he would leave space for air separation of the mould from the piece.
I have used similar casting methods, but then CNC came along and I got to try out using one of them to carve out a precise mould from a solid block.
</font>
Edited by: Deadbeat
When I made a mold for some car horns, I made them in
3 steps...first I made a form to cast the mold out of wood, 2 part
foam, and body filler. Any curves were done with the foam because it
sanded easy and was easy to fix. Then I smoothed and sealed the foam
with Rage Gold Extreme body filler. After that, I sanded it to 400 grit
and painted them.
To make the plug, I took the 2 half forms and waxed them 3 or 4 times
with mold release wax and finally sprayed a coat of PVA on them. I
sealed the halves with clay to prevent any leaks.
Then I poured casting resin into the form (I used Easy Flo 60 from US
Composites). And let it cure. I did fill up some of the space with
scrap wood to use less resin in the casting. Once cured, I pulled apart
the halves and have a pretty nice plug mold. The Easy Flo 60 can be
easily sanded really easily. Any imperfections in the plug were either
sanded out or smoothed with clay or body filler.
Then to make the part, I polished the plug, waxed it 6 times with mold
wax and sprayed it with PVA. Then I brushed on a couple heavy coats of
gel coat, let it tack, and laid my glass and core mat on top of that.
After curing, I let it set in the mold for a day before I popped it out.
The filler he refers to is slick sand/feather seal, which apparently primes, seals, and fills all at once. He also mentions that if he did it again he would leave space for air separation of the mould from the piece.
I have used similar casting methods, but then CNC came along and I got to try out using one of them to carve out a precise mould from a solid block.
</font>
Edited by: Deadbeat
Beranek\'s law
\'bits of ply round a driver\'
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