Cropped top ... How bad can it really be?

  • bjm362
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13 years 2 months ago #11471 by bjm362
As some of you know, I am using the time between now and spring to research options on a sub project!
Cubos are strong front runners at the moment,but I am still looking to be sure!

I am currently also looking at different ways to utilize this driver www.pyleaudio.com/manuals/PDW21250.pdf .
Unfortunately its EBP is to low to consider a Cubo variation.
I may actually buy a single driver to start with and make a really simple ,cheap cabinet just to be up and running.
Definetly with consideration to buy another driver and make better cabinets later.

Anyway I have been running it through BassBox Pro 6, but Converting my volumes to trapezoidal sphere (traps reduce standing waves). While doing so I notice thaT I could crop the top and make the cabinet front 24"x24" and could make two complete cabinets for a 21' sub out of a single sheet of 4'x8' material (plus bracing of course).

Bassbox pro shows peak output for a ported cabinet using a boxvolume of 3.49 cu ft ( volume taken up by driver is not yet accounted for BTW) and High fidelety with a volume of 10.15 cu ft.
Of course BB pro is considering these volumes with a rectangular prizm. My square front trapezoidal prizm has an aproximate box volume of 5.33 cu ft.
My question being is just how bad could they really be? I mean because of the shortened top that is.
EDit:
I realize that cabinets that are slightly taller than they are wide reduce standing waves,but won't the trapezoid shape help offset this a bit?
2nd Edit:

Would going to a heavily dampened internal invironment help ?

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12 years 11 months ago #13226 by jsg
The driver wants a vast cabinet.

Try looking at some other 21" drivers, for example the Precision Devices PD2150 has more BL and can therefore work in a smaller box.

On the other hand, if you want 98dB to 25Hz, you'll need a vast cabinet no matter what.

One way to do a much smaller cabinet than the driver wants is to do 3rd order passive assisted. Basically a sealed box and you put a capacitor in series with the driver. It's documented in Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. You would need lots of unpolarised electrolytics to get your required capacitance and voltage rating though.

Ars est celare artem

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